I am very confident that voice control is the way to go when it comes to controlling my home theatre setup into the future, because I am currently using it and benefiting from the huge advantages it offers. I believe a reliable voice control system will be the best way to control any electrical appliance, and that voice control is likely to be in our lives indefinitely. There are huge cultural and environmental problems which need to be addressed for it to work reliably, but the technology that interprets what we say works very well.

After setting up voice control on my home theatre PC, I realised that there needed to be an instant way to trigger the voice control so it would start listening to me. I needed a way to avoid using a traditional Universal remote, or my gadget. I needed a button that is ultra convenient. This means installing a button right next to my hand that will trigger the voice control. The only way of achieving this is by installing a button into my lounge. This may seem a bit excessive, but once it is done, the benefits we receive from it will last us well into the future. I believe all home theatre seating or lounge suites will eventually have the option to add a button into the arm.

There are many different types of buttons on the market, but I have only seen one that I know will be able to last the lifetime of the lounge. It’s going to take a beating, so I needed a button that was strong and reliable. Arcade machine buttons have proven themselves over the years as being ultra reliable. Fortunately for me, they are also cheap.

The end result is a button sitting immediately next to my hand which can activate and control my whole entertainment system using my voice. It’s not going to get much better than this. I expect this configuration to last the life of the couch, and it is likely to be considerably cheaper than having these factory installed. The only DIY work needed to be done for most lounges will be to drill a hole to install the button, and to click the pieces together. My scripts are not perfect yet, but I hope you will agree that it is pretty exciting stuff.

This article will show you how to install an arcade controller board, and a button into your lounge to trigger voice control of your entertainment.

There are probably many ways to achieve the same result, but this solution is cheap enough for me to run with. I purchased a set of 20 buttons for $20 and a BYO arcade encoder board for $50 from X-Arcade. Soon after I received them and started testing them out, it was clear I had made a wise choice. I quickly purchased another two upgrade boards, so that I could install one in each chair. I am going to use them elsewhere in the house now as I have figured out that it would be easy to daisy chain the chairs by running wires from the one board.

This kit comes with almost everything required to install a button in up to 20 seats so long as you are willing to solder some wires to reach from chair to chair, and possibly some plug sockets of some type, to tidy up the wire connections. If you are not comfortable with soldering, you could use an additional separate USB PCB Upgrade kit in each chair at an additional cost of $30 per chair. There may well be cheaper ways of achieving the same result, but a starting cost of around $70 if you are willing to solder from the one controller board, I am not fussed about searching for a cheaper option. The only other costs are a USB hub and possibly an active USB cable used to connect the controller boards to the computer.

This arcade controller board simulates a computer keyboard, so it’s just a case of either connecting the correct wires to a button so that the 0 or [ are the active buttons, or by wiring up your own selected button and changing the AutoHotkey script to respond to that button. It’s all fairly straight forward. The circuitry looks complicated, and there do appear to be a lot of wires, but all we need to care about is that one end has the USB plug that connects to the computer, and the other end is a button. The rest of it we can ignore as it will do it’s job out of the box. A little bit of trial and error in notepad will show you what each button does. I have only come across two minor problems with using this board, though they have little impact on how reliably the system functions. If I set the script to use a keyboard letter, every time I use that letter on the keyboard, the relevant script will run rather than showing the letter on the screen. I need to make sure that I am only using rarely used buttons (such as [ and 0) instead of general letters. Also, this board will not bring the system out of standby, though putting the system into standby is not desirable as it will also stop the media centre from recording and processing TV shows. There are ways around it though, which I will explain in future articles.

Installation Guide

Please read through the entire process before making alterations to your lounge. If you are not careful, it would be easy to do a poor job and effectively destroy the appearance of your expensive lounge suite.

Ensure you do have access to the inside of your lounge. If your arm wont fit in the arm cavity, installation will be near impossible.

Components: This image is of the components that make up an arcade button. There is the button itself, the locking screw and the micro switch. They clip or screw together easily.
Connect the button to your PC: Plug in the button to your computer and wait for it to install. Open up notepad and see what button registers on the screen. There are lots of buttons you can plug into, but [ is plugged into the board, one down on the left side.
Drill a hole: You will need to make a hole in the arm of the chair. Be careful when drilling because the cushioning of the chair may get caught up in the drill as it did for me. A way around this is to cut a suitable hole with a box cutter into the fabric before drilling. A 20mm hole is required, and once achieved, the button should slip in easily. You could choose to install a panel in the side of the chair, and attach the button (and other things) to that panel.
Screw the button in: The button will fit tightly in your lounge when you screw on the locking device.
Attach the micro switch:  Clip in the micro switch and if necessary reattach the wires.
Attach board to couch: I used the holes in the board to put in some self tapping screws. The other end I couldn’t reach was attached with double sided tape. You could probably just use double sided tape if you want, but the hold would obviously not be as strong as using screws.
Connect it to your computer: Either daisy chain some powered USB hubs together or use an active USB cable. This will get the signal from the back of the room, to the computer.

You should now be able to test it out. If the script is running and you have wired up the correct button, it should work straight away for you.

Some lounge suite designs may not be appropriate for installing your buttons. You will need to sit in your chair to feel if there is a suitable position for your button on the outside of the lounge where your hand can naturally reach to. You will also need access to this place from beneath the chair. Depending on how you mount it, you may need to make sure you can fit your arm into the arm cavity of the chair. As my arm would not fit, my wife needed to help me attach the button. The chair in the video is a chair my wife bought for $20 from an op shop. This was so that I could practice on it, without ruining the family lounge suite. I recommend going through this same process, doing some thorough research before attempting this on your expensive lounge. Saying that, it is ridiculously easy to install.

My final purchase was $130 plus shipping as I purchased the 20 buttons, the BYO arcade encoder, and 2 USB upgrade kits. Though as explained above, I don’t plan on using the Upgrade kits for this project, so that brings it down to around $70.

Resources:

Pack of 20 buttons: $20
X-Arcade BYO arcade encoder: $50 – Includes wires to attach buttons though these could be made
USB PCB Upgrade Kit: $30 – Same as above without cables

I have no affiliation with X-Arcade. I just found their site and purchased from them by chance, and I found their service and products to be good.

Once I was able to voice control my home theatre PC, I still needed to use my remote control to turn on the TV and receiver. I wanted to rid my lounge room of remotes altogether, so I needed to find a way to get my computer to control the rest of my audio visual gear. I wanted to be able to control everything in the lounge room with just my gadget and my voice.

It was logical to use Infra Red (IR) technology for this, because that is the only way we can control most AV gear currently. Often the buttons on a device (such as a TV set) don’t offer as many options as its remote control unit.

The USB-UIRT is a magic device that can send and receive IR signals. It connects to a USB port on our computer and enables us to send IR commands from our computer to our peripheral AV gear. It sits at the back of the room and has good range and reliability. This device removes the need for remote controls in our TV room altogether as we can tag a voice command to tell the USB-UIRT which IR signal or signals we want it to send.

The result is that we can walk into the room, press the trigger button and say “TV on”. This will turn the TV and stereo on. When we say “I’m finished”, the TV and stereo will turn off. 

It gets really impressive when we start controlling our VCR, BluRay or cable box with voice. I have added some extra scripting which will enable just this. When I put a video into the video player, I can say “Video Player” and the TV will change the channel to AV, to show the VCR. I can then use the usual play/pause/stop/rewind/fast forward voice commands to navigate through the video. When I return to the media centre, the tape will stop, rewind and 3 minutes later, eject the tape and turn off. This is while all the other media centre voice commands are working as per normal.

This article will show you how to setup the USB-UIRT to control your audio visual gear to control everything in your lounge room/home theatre by voice. The scripts need to be installed, and IR signals learnt, which is thankfully quite easy with to do with EventGhost. The speech macros have also been updated to simplify the commands to their shortest abbreviation. I have also included another speech macro which enables the “Play artist/genre/track” commands. It’s a bit harder for the computer to pick up the new commands, though they do work. The old commands still work and are worth learning because the computer is much more likely to recognise them. The commands will be progressively tweaked until each command is as simple as we can make them. It’s not far off as simple as it can get now.

How it works:

These scripts let us use voice commands to trigger EventGhost commands. When we say “Room on” the keyboard shortcut is sent to EventGhost which in turn sends the series of IR codes to make the TV and stereo turn to the correct channel.

Additionally, we use the command “Video Player”, the script changes modes so that instead of sending keyboard shortcuts to navigate around Windows Media Center, it starts sending IR signals based on our commands, via EventGhost. When we return back to the “Media Center”, the original commands are used.

This could easily be expanded to allow for multiple external devices. It is written in autohotkey, so it’s about as simple as coding can get if you want to tinker around yourself. You will just need to make another componentmode for each device you want to control, and add to your EventGhost tree. I will update the coding myself if there is enough demand or my needs change.

Hardware:

USB-UIRT: This device is what makes it possible to use voice commands to control our AV gear. It sends IR signals to our AV components so that the component will do what we want. With the right scripting, this device can control just about everything in our TV room. The USB-UIRT is $50 plus shipping and is available from the USB-UIRT Website. I am very excited by the things this device makes possible, both currently and into the future. This needs to be placed in your room so it has clear sight of your devices. In my case, this means having it at the back of the room.

Software:

Voice Control.zip: This file contains all of my speech macros and scripts that make the system work. These scripts have been considerably updated to allow for these extra functions, but can still be used if limited functionality is desired while training takes place.

Eventghost: This automation software lets us control the USB-UIRT based on the voice commands we give. I have included my EventGhost Tree in Voice Control.zip so that all you need to do is teach Eventghost what IR commands to use.

Installation:

There are various components that need to be installed for all of this to work correctly. It follows on from my earlier article on How to: Voice control Windows Media Center, which goes into detail on how to install the voice recognition control script, as well as the speech macros. Please refer to that article for assistance on how to install the various components.

Unzip Voice Control.zip into your Speech Macros folder within your Documents folder.

There are only two new components in Voice Control.zip, and the first is the EventGhost tree, and I will show you how to load it and configure it for your needs. There is no way to bypass the training as each device uses different commands, but luckily it is fairly straight forward. The second component is Video Player WSR Macro which will need to be installed if you want to operate any external AV component, i.e Video Player.

Install EventGhost: The scripts are designed to launch EventGhost from it’s default location. If you change the location, you will need to update a whole bunch of the macros and scripts, though it is not difficult.

1. Click File > Open
2. Navigate to your speech Macros folder
3. Select  “My Gadget – USBUIRT Eventghost Tree.xml”
4. Click Open

On the left of the screen, we can see a log of what triggers and actions have been acted on by EventGhost. On the right side is a list of all the macros I have setup for my system.

The macro title is the same as what the macro does. Below that is the trigger event. In all cases, these are currently keyboard shortcuts i.e. how the script calls each action to be performed. Normally, the triggers will be able to be left as is, but if you choose to change the trigger keyboard shortcuts, you will also need to change the scripts.

Below that is the transmitted IR code, and these are the codes we need to change to match your system. There are quite a few things you are going to need to change, but most are simple. It is worth saving frequently while working through this. I frequently got the “not responding” warning, and it usually rectified itself given enough time, but sometimes it would crash. I haven’t had the same crashing when running it.

We will start off with one of the easy ones. Right click on the command USB-UIRT: Pause Video and select configure.

Click on Learn an IR Code…

Follow the instructions on screen.

In this example, press the pause button your video players remote control unit.

Once a valid signal has been taken, the screen will return to Action Item Settings.

You can test the code to see if it performs the same command you trained it with.

Repeat the training for all the other commands.

There are a few special commands which perform more than one action. These turn the TV on and change video inputs etc. You will need to figure out what buttons you press on your remote and replicate the procedure in EventGhost. You may need to put in some delays as I have.

Once you have set it up, you won’t need to change it until you buy another TV or other AV component. Ensure you save the tree with your own filename to ensure future Voice Control.zip files don’t overwrite your altered file.

Honourable Mention: The USBIRToy may soon be a suitable device to use for this task. It is much cheaper, but currently lacks the power required to get results we want.

Conclusion:

I am very happy with the results this is getting for me. I have found the USB-UIRT to be very reliable. This is a key feature that makes voice control truly valuable. By combining my voice with this device, the whole lounge room is controlled with just one button.

I hope you have enjoyed reading this article and found it useful. Please stick around and check out some of my other articles at Inspect My Gadget.

Universal remotes are great devices which simplify the control of home entertainment devices. They cut down the pile of remotes to one single remote, removing the need to use multiple remotes to do a simple task like watching TV. This also clears up space on the coffee table so that it can be used for better stuff like.. umm coffee.

While making life easier for the person who set up the remote, other family members or friends may become confused by it. All it takes when pressing the remote buttons is for a cat to walk by, or a coffee table in the way of the infra red signal to go walkabouts. There could also be configuration problems where the universal remote isn’t completely compatible with a device. This may result in some buttons needing to be inputed manually.

While the remote works correctly most of the time, when something does go wrong, my wife has no idea what buttons to press to get things up and running. Why should she need to know the inner workings of something that I set up? I continually tried to make minor adjustments to the remote configuration, and even rewired the equipment at one stage, to make life a little easier for her. In the end, there was only one solution.

I put together a cheat sheet for my wife so that she can do her own fault finding. The cheat sheet lists what devices need to be on for a certain activity, and what setting each device needs to be on. Using this list, she can look on the front panel of each device and figure out where the problem is. There are also additional notes describing what may go wrong, and how to rectify it.

I tested it out on my wife and the results were much better than anything else I had come up with. Feel free to download it here and alter it, or create your own. It isn’t a complicated document, but I hope it will save my wife from any continued frustration.

JoytoKey is a small program that allows you to setup the movement controls and buttons of a game controller, into emulated keystrokes and mouse movements. You can setup different profiles for different programs and games, as well as separate configurations for different controllers. You can even configure a button on the controller represent a key combination.

This program is useful in the case where games don’t offer any game controller support, or where some newer games don’t offer support for older controllers, especially where drivers haven’t been updated over the years. JoytoKey allows you to split the axis controls into two separate buttons.

For example; if you have a first person shooter game that does not currently support a game controller, you can setup a profile for your controller to work with the game. Each button will represent a key from from your keyboard. Once all the buttons are configured, you have effectively added game controller support for your game.

Read more and download your free copy from electracode.

If you would like to control your mouse cursor only with your controller, check out this article for a simple alternative.

Logitech has a new range of Vista Sidebar Gadgets available from their website. All of the Gadgets mentioned here can also be used as Yahoo! Widgets. Each of these tools are related to keyboards. Best of all, you don’t need a Logitech keyboard for them to work. I am using a Microsoft cordless keyboard and all of the gadgets worked fine.

Key Lock Status Gadget: Cordless keyboards generally don’t have LEDs in them to tell you when your num/caps/scroll locks are active or inactive. This is often the job of the receiver. You are able to get software that shows a popup on your screen, but these fade away, clog up the tasktray or look really ugly.

This gadget from Logitech sits in your sidebar and shows you the state of your keyboard. The response time is a little slow (around 1 second) but it looks nice and is always visible.

If you like that, it’s just the beginning of what Logitech has for us…

Keyboard dashboard: See how quickly you type. This gadget gives you a speedo like display that shows you the average amount of words you type a minute, how many characters you have typed since the last reset, as well as the speedo itself, swaying around the 20wpm as I type this article. There is also an instant reset button.

While it is a bit of fun to play with, it is always good to try and improve your typing speed, so that you can get more done in less time. This is a handy tool that you can use to challenge yourself each new day.

There are even some practical uses…

• Improve your typing speed.
• Get a rough idea how many words are in your new documents.
• Figure out how many times you press buttons while playing games.
• Know when somebody has been using your computer.
• While sending an SMS from your computer, see when the 161 characters are used up.

So once you know how many words you type a minute, you may want to see how accurate you are. Logitech have a solution for that too.

Error Rate Calculator Gadget: This simple gadget compares the number of times you press the backspace key compared to all the other keys. It calculates a percentage from this data. Obviously, the lower the number, the less errors you are making.

At this rate, my Sidebar may as well have Logitech branding.

Grab them from Logitech. The link may fail as it is set for Australian Locale. If you have problems, type gadgets into Logitechs search.

Most phones these days have cameras built in, so wouldn’t it be great if we could use the phones we already have as our webcam.

SmartCam answers the call. SmartCam fools your computer into seeing your smartphones camera as a webcam. A Windows client and a mobile client both need to be installed for it to operate. SmartCam works with MSN messenger, Skype, as well as a straight forward capture to file.

While this all sounds very good, being a SourceForge hosted project that is still very young, SmartCam has some limitations. It only works over Bluetooth, which is exactly what I wanted, but it may limit some users. It is designed for Symbian S60, Series 2 & 3 devices, although it does run on a Java platform; so it may work on other devices.

SmartCam worked for me on a Nokia N70. I had no success with Windows Mobile, however it has not been designed to run on this platform as yet. It was designed for XP, and I had no problems running SmartCam in Vista.

It is a little fiddly to get up and running. The mobile versions need to be installed from the Windows installation folder. Once you read the Read Me file, and get the hang of how it works, you should be fine. SmartCam fulfilled my needs, and I recommend you give this one a go.

(Update: 26/9/07) To stop the popups for each new frame on your phone, go into your tools folder and select your application manager.
Go down to jSmartCam, select options, and Suite Settings.
Change Connectivity to Always allowed
Change Multimedia to Ask First Time.
For more information, check out the read-me file in the installation folder.

Available for free from SourceForge.net

The reason I looked into this was so that I could control Windows Media Centre from my couch. I had all sorts of problems finding a suitable tool. Eventually I came across this gem. After installing it, I found out that it could do much more than I initially wanted. There is no reason why it could not be configured to control first person shooter games.

It is highly configurable, allowing you to change almost every aspect of it. You can use it to control any application. The only drawback I found was that there was no option to disable/enable this utility from the controller. Disabling it is possible by exiting the program, but without the program open, you can no longer use your controller to re-launch the program.

Logitech users would probably be best using the profiler software which can be downloaded from their website. This will allow similar functionality.

Joystick 2 Mouse 3 is available for free from the authors website, or get it from Tucows.

Generally, there are not a great deal of consumer reasons for wanting to do this. It is much more suited for commercial trade shows where you have multiple screens all around a stall. The reason I looked into this was because I needed to split my signal between my TV and a second monitor.  

This article will explain some hardware options you can use to get from one video source, to multiple screens, replicating the same image on each screen. This is not a true dual screen setup.

There are three ways I have successfully been able to send a signal to multiple displays.

1. VGA Y-Splitter Cable – Ok
2. Video Splitter – Great
3. Another Video Card – Best

I have used all of the above methods over the years and had varying results.

VGA Y-Splitter Cable:

This is a cable that sends the signal to multiple outputs. The problem with this method is that you halve the signal going to each output. I have been using one of these for a long time and the quality has been a little rough. There is a little bit of shadow/ghost on the images and it is not as bright as it should be.

The best thing about these cables is the price. They cost only a few dollars. Worth keeping in mind is that the signal will only drop off if both the output sources are turned on. If you are using only one of the outputs at any time, the signal will remain sharp.

Video Splitter:

A video splitter does as its name implies. It is designed to split the video signal without any signal loss. These have amplifiers built in to keep the signal strong on both sides. These are also ideal if you are sending your signal to many outputs. The standard outputs are 2, 4 and 8 VGA outputs, but they are cascadable meaning you can send the signal from one box to another, allowing for an unlimited amount of monitor connections.

Video Card:

Most video cards on the market these days have two outputs. This will let you use the second connection to replicate your screen to multiple displays. If you do not have a spare output on your card, you can add in another card. Many of todays motherboards will allow you to install two cards easily. If your motherboard only has one slot for a video card, you can use a PCI video card or a USB video output.

The reason why I believe this is the best option for splitting video is that you can use your Windows or Linux video software to manipulate each screen. You can turn the individual screens into one huge screen, or run each screen at a different resolution. This gives you freedom at a later date if you want to change your configuration.

This method is great if you want to connect only a few displays, but if you want to get your signal to many displays, a video splitter is a better choice. This is an expensive way to achieve something that is relatively simple.

I hope you have found this article helpful, and that sometime in your lifetime you will be able to enjoy playing with these options. We could well end up having screens in every room of our house in the years to come. Please stick around and check out some of the other articles at Inspect My Gadget.

I didn’t expect to come across any problems but it turned into a nightmare trying to do it for free, as there is no free software available, and this feature is not built into Windows Mobile 5 phones. There are some commercial/shareware applications which will let you print but I like free stuff.

This article will show you what I have been able to find on this topic. I hope that it will help you find a solution that is practical for your situation. You will also find it helpful if you decide to start your own search for an answer, as I have put together all of my research into this single article.

An important question to ask yourself before continuing is “Why do I need to print from my device?” I am sure you have your reasons and that is why you are reading this article. Consider if it is just as practical to email the document to a colleague or print it out when you get back to your computer. There are also fax solutions which allow you to send and receive faxes from your Pocket PC. This may be more suitable for what you are trying to do.

If you are in a commercial situation where you do need to print things out on site for customers, your best bet is by far to get an infra red or Bluetooth printer in which you can beam files to. I have not played around with this from a Windows Mobile Device, but there are products available which are designed exactly for this purpose.

Currently on my device:

HP image zone has a print function, but when you set something up to print, it will only print when you reconnect your device to your desktop.

Acrobat Reader 2.0 also has a greyed out print option, as you need the HP Mobile Printing SDK installed for this to work, hence a Windows Mobile 2002/2003 device.

That is all the printing functionality I can find on my device currently. This is of no use to me personally.

The Past:

I used to love using HP’s mobile printing solution. It worked really well and I never came across any problems with it. Their website has a message saying that the software has been discontinued from October 2005.

From the HP website…

“Since 1992, HP has been committed to delivering a high-quality, complete printing experience for customers using mobile devices. Because customers can use similar mobile printing software offerings (see list, below) that are compatible with Pocket PC and Windows Mobile OS platforms, HP has decided to focus on other areas of its mobile printing and imaging strategy where solutions may not be so readily available. As a result, HP will discontinue HP Mobile Printing for Pocket PC and HP Mobile Printing SDK for Pocket PC, effective October 1, 2005. Any current customers / developers may receive basic phone support for six months thereafter, with all support for these products ending on April 1, 2006.”

So that leaves us going up the creek without a boat, legs or arms. They offer us some links to a couple of commercial packages which you will find later in this article. Thanks HP!

The software is still available but does not run on Windows Mobile 5 or 6 Devices. Try the following link for HP Mobile Printing. This should still work if you are using Windows Mobile 2002/2003.

http://www.yse-uk.com/download/details.php?file=37

The Future:

As I was trying to find a way to print on Monday (the whole day), I came across an article at NY Times saying that HP was introducing a new system to print from Mobile devices which would allow you to send the document you want to print to one of HP’s servers. Then when you get to a printer, you can put in your code and retrieve the file. This may be ok for some people but I wouldn’t trust placing my confidential documents on a server I have no control over.

Read the full article at the New York Times website (18/08/2007).

I am not fussed about printing full colour formatted documents, just the ability to print text documents would be great for me. The main problem with making all this work is that WM5 devices don’t have print drivers in them as our desktops do. There is a need for a unified driver which will work with most printers (or a particular brands printer range) to print out the majority of filetypes.

Commercial Solutions:

The best bet for you is to find a commercial solution for yourself. I try to stay away from commercial solutions as much as possible at Inspect My Gadget, but they do solve the problem and do it alright. They all have a trial period so you can try out the program and if you don’t like them, they won’t cost you money.

I would normally place a work-around solution above the commercial options in an article, but for once I don’t think the work-arounds are the way to go.

Bachmann Software – Printboy

FieldSoftware – Smartphoneprint 

Westtek – Jetcet print

All of these packages look like they will do the trick for printing on the run. Give them a try and see what you think. They are all much cheaper than buying a hardware solution, but then again, why would you want to print from your Pocket PC to a networked or desktop printer?

Work-arounds:

Solution 1: Wait until you get back to the office.

Solution 2: With HP having just announced their server based printing, it got me thinking. There is no reason why you can’t use an online storage system to upload your files to while you are on the run. Even things like G-mail would do the trick. If you upload the file, you will then be able to print it once you get to the office, or you could ask a colleague to access the data store and print it out for you. You could also email the document directly to your colleague.

Solution 3: There is a patent out suggesting that you will be able to email a document to a printer, which will then print it out. I have a brief recollection of this being possible already on some larger multi function devices. If you have a large multi function printer in your workplace, check to see if it has this function.

Solution 4: Use a Terminal Services Client or VNC to access your desktop over WiFi. These programs will allow you to see your computers desktop completely, allowing you to print documents. You are able to map drives on both your Windows mobile device and your desktop, so you will be able to transfer files between them. You can then open the application in you full blown office suite and print the document with all of its glorious formatting and pictures.

I hope that this article has been insightful for you and has answered some of your questions. If you have any better solutions, I would love to see them in the comments area below. Please stick around and check out some of the other articles at Inspect My Gadget.